Surprises In the Canary Islands
Our sail from Tangier to the Canaries was eventful, to say the least. A nearly 5 day sail, first keeping watch for orcas that might want to “play” with our rudders (we didn’t see any), then enjoying the company of dozens of dolphins swimming along with us. One morning, we came across an ocean rower who was happily rowing along “hoping to reach any of the Canary islands” (his words). Lastly, before daylight only a few miles from the islands, the coast guard called to say that there was an unlit boat of refugees in the near vicinity and we should be on the lookout.
Another catamaran nearby spotted them first, and we both hung around within about a mile of the inflatable tender carrying more people than it could hold, until the coast guard rescue picked them up. We later learned that the crossing from Africa to the Canaries is one of the most popular, and that nearly 35,000 people had made the trip in 2023. The boat we saw, flashing a green laser light, had 49 people on board: 36 men, 9 women and several children. They all made it safely to shore, but we don’t know their fate from there. In the dark of night, from the comfort of a boat I choose to be on, it is unimaginable to think of the desperation leading to each of them getting in that tiny RIB and the hope and anguish driving them to unknown shores. The water is unforgiving and their future is untold, and yet, the risk is worth it.
Shortly after they were taken ashore, we anchored in La Graciosa, a tiny island north in the Canary archipelago. It has a cute town of white washed houses and a dormant volcano that we climbed. We walked the sandy beach route to town and enjoyed the nearly empty shores where we made new boat friends.
After a few days we made the short trip to Lanzarote, a much larger and more developed volcanic Island. The harbour is lined with hotels, but inland the surprises kept coming. The land is lava rock and resembles what we imagine Mars to be. In order to build or develop, they must move massive amounts of this rock. But it’s good soil for growing and Lanzarote has many wineries, each vine with a semi-circle of volcanic rock stacked around it to protect from wind. We visited the Casa Museo del Campesino where we ate traditional food and enjoyed live music. At La Casa de los Volcanoes we had coffee inside a crater with natural water, then explored its museum with an incredible Mars landing simulation, and a VR of lava tunnels that run underneath the island. It was one of the best museums we’ve ever visited. From there we headed north, where a lookout and restaurant displayed the view over La Graciosa and the anchorage we were just at. The views were amazing and everything on the island is beautifully designed to fit in with the surrounding landscape. We also enjoyed fun with new Austrian friends at anchor.
From there we went south to Fuertaventura, an island known for its laidback vibes and surfing. Here we celebrated Thanksgiving on the boat and Russ’ birthday (with an incredible captain hat cake made by Gus!). The kids took surf lessons and we hung out on the beautiful beach. At this point, we’ve done the rounds of European beaches. The Germans are usually naked, the French are topless, and the kids have pretty much stopped noticing! I definitely think this counts as a measure of ‘Citizen of the World’.
After a few weeks of fun and exploration, it was time to get to Las Palmas de Gran Canarias - the jumping off point for all Atlantic crossings. We arrived on November 27th and were given a birth at the gas dock. This was so much fun because everyone on their way to the Atlantic stops for fuel before leaving, and many boats left every day. We said hello and goodbye to so many boats, all loaded up with their fruit in hanging mesh, the excitement palpable. Hippies and hitchhikers walked the docks, displayed their signs (“take me anywhere”) and generally tried to find a ride across the pond. We hired two guys to help wax the boat and they did a stellar job and were happy for the work. We said goodbye and wished our many boat friends well, we would meet again in the Caribbean. We learned a perfect German word to describe the daily entertainment - hafenkino -translating literally to “marina cinema”. We like to say, sometimes you watch the show, sometimes you are the show.
Las Palmas is a great city with miles of boardwalk, cruise ship terminals, a surfing beach, excellent museums and great shopping. At the HiperDino I stocked up on food for the crossing and the cashiers knew me by the end (5 different shopping trips, all delivered directly to the boat). We also found Christmas trees and gifts and goodies. We ate delicious Spanish food and even found time to sauna at the marina pool. (Let me just say that you haven’t sauna’d unless you’ve sauna’d with an Estonian - shout out to my dear friend Kirke on S/V Curious who brought all sorts of sauna necessities except for the birch branches we’re supposed to whack ourselves with).
At the museum of industry one day, Jordan decided to stick his finger in a turbine. He promptly fainted and poor Hannah had to call us to come take him to the emergency room. He was completely fine, just a little bandage on his fingernail, but it was yet another example of outstanding health care that was fast, easy and completely FREE.
Gran Canaria has the coolest different ecosystems. We’ve never experienced anything like the vast sand dunes on the south side. In the middle of the island are huge volcanic mountains and valleys, now lush and green and chilly at the top. There are natural sea pools at the edge of the ocean, and high rise condos in town. It is a remarkable place and we loved our time there. In between sight-seeing, we readied the boat for the crossing. Brian flew in early to help out and he and Gus spent hours scraping off old solar panels. We checked lines, filled the oil and the diesel tanks, and accomplished many boat projects so that we were ship-shape. It was work well done as we had no major issues on the crossing.
Of all the places we visited, we had zero expectations for the Canary islands and were blown away by the beauty, diversity, and culture. The last thing before we left was to greet the final two of our stellar Atlantic Crossing crew - Jackie and Aaron - and say goodbye to Hannah who would spend the holidays with family. We refueled and sailed away on December 12, 2023. Goodbye Europe and Africa, hello Caribbean!
